« Reply #10 on: Nov 09, 2025, 10:11 am »
 
I did dip both my coils in hot CorrosionX liquid - THEN once coil was fixed in position the CorrosionX Grease was thickly brushed to act as  a more physical outer barrier. THIS has seemingly worked as the Liquid PLUS Grease over coat shows much better protection from salt ingress / corrosion.


For some unknown reason I did not notice the small wire (which I laboriously smear with PU seal) is only an earth wire to ground coils and stop engine. Because of this- IF the spade connector becomes corroded, The end product would only be an engine that refused to stop (rather than  refused to run!)  ::)
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #9 on: Nov 09, 2025, 12:12 am »
 
Thanks

« Reply #8 on: Nov 09, 2025, 12:00 am »
 
re: hall sensor. Molte Grazie

« Reply #7 on: Nov 08, 2025, 11:27 pm »
 
The problem with these coils is all the laminations that allow water to be drawn in by capillary action. If oil can be persuaded to be drawn in it will keep the water out. Gently heat the oil and it will be drawn in further.

My Briggs coils have been dipped in an conformal coating whilst gently heated (60C is safe) to encourage the coating to penetrate the laminations. Better still would be to vacuum impregnate it - is subject to a vacuum (not too much else the coating boils) whilst submerged. This draws the air out which is replaced by the coating.
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #6 on: Nov 08, 2025, 4:00 pm »
 
No- nothing extra needed in my case. Please note sensor is angled perhaps 30 degrees towards the magnets coming towards it. Some sensors have a small red light to indicate operation. Mine doesnt as I found a four pack on Ebay to allow for replacements as they are very cheap and only a few mins work to swop over, rather than getting stressed they cease operations after about 3 years. Its salty out there!  ;)
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #5 on: Nov 08, 2025, 2:16 pm »
 
Thankyou. I do have some Corrosion X Aviation, which likes to creep into tight places. I'll track down the grease. Just an observation I see the Hall sensor for your tacho, you mentioned this some time ago. I have purchased that tacho & a hall sensor in a kit. It seems simple enough. Did you need to install any extra electric tech? Thanks.

« Reply #4 on: Nov 08, 2025, 12:10 pm »
 
Photo 3 Corrosion X GREASE (applied onto heated up coils with hot air gun) with brush shows surface corrosion to be well controlled but clearly inter leaf corrosion is not showing or visible, and thus assumed to be LESS so
ON COILS - The results suggest Corrosion X GREASE applied by brush is a good choice in  British salt water.
Other countries are available  ;)
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #3 on: Nov 08, 2025, 12:04 pm »
 
Photo2 Hot Hand dispenser application of Corrosion X
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #2 on: Nov 08, 2025, 11:58 am »
 
Good Morning Eric, here are the results of perhaps 2-3 years of usage on these (new at the time)  coils.
There are perhaps three possible ways to apply Corrosion X see--> Photo 1 Below
A. Corrosion X Aerosol can - Expensive option and can run out of pressure leaving some unused in the can, My LEAST preferred.

2 Or Corrosion X  in HAND dispenser - better value and spray is adjustable AND is altered by temperature changes during application
B Hand dispenser My PREFERRED use for general anti corrosion properties and VALUE. Used on one coil ---> photo No 2

C Corrosion X Grease. Higher viscosity!  I have used THIS on ONE new iron coil  Photo No 3
----------------------
PHOTO 1
« Last Edit: Nov 08, 2025, 12:21 pm by Nick Flint »
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #1 on: Nov 07, 2025, 6:49 pm »
 
Hi, one for Nick, if I may?  A while back you were testing, Dielectric Grease on your ignition coils. I was wondering before I go forward if this worked for you as I have some on hand. Thanks.