« Reply #11 on: Nov 15, 2018, 7:19 pm »
 
I've always had rally car type master switches on all my craft - well protected with ....yes Vaseline ... never had a problem.  As all our kit remains on float charge when out of service , this is the only section of the circuit not covered by the isolator.  It is security as well as safety to have a master switch. OK, unlikely to have a parked craft nicked but a feral child can do a lot of damage to itself and the craft by fiddling....and it keeps the insurers happy.


We will never agree on lanyards, but personally the thought of going in the drink and seeing Britannia making off at a stately speed - just faster than I can swim with an inflated life jacket - assuming that is possible etc etc etc  - with thrust at  tickover and lift running at cruise is not my idea of a fun day out.  A correctly installed lanyard is unlikely to activate without good cause ....and if you do happen to leave the driving seat unintentionally, you may be very glad it did.

« Reply #10 on: Nov 15, 2018, 9:19 am »
 
Loads of pros and cons for this one!  Other possible considerations:
  • If the craft wiring is designed and installed by an amateur (most home-built hovercraft!) then that's a + for an isolator (not to prevent a fire but to allow isolation of the electrics when the craft isn't in use to help mitigate poor design or installation).
  • There is a pretty good chance that the isolator will weld closed on a full-on battery short (i.e. you will be unable to turn it off!  A -ve
  • Is the isolator immediately accessible in an emergency?  Do all the occupants/passengers know where it (and the first aid kit) is and how it works?
The "lanyard" issue has been well discussed on her previously.  Technically, you should install one but practically it is of dubious benefit (and can increase risk as Ian says).  Firstly, you should evaluate the risk of pilot ejection for your particular.  In the craft I use, that is minimal to non-existent - in open-style, low freeboard craft the risk is obviously much higher than in semi-enclosed craft.  If operating mainly over water, the odds of any ejection impact occurring (a sudden stop likely to eject the pilot) are very small.  On my craft, the risk of injury caused by the pilot impacting the interior of the craft is much more likely than ejection (maybe I need some soft furnishings instead ;) ).  A side slip stop is the highest risk ejection situation and, on water, that is limited by the side plough plane angle (craft will skip unless the roll angle is exceeded (and proper hull/floatation design will prevent that).  If the maximum troll angle is exceeded then, by definition, the craft will capsize and I'd be pretty sure the engine will probably stop at that point!

« Reply #9 on: Nov 15, 2018, 9:02 am »
 
Well put Ian,


I was thinking along similar lines with the lanyard.  The way I see it, is that my TS3 will have a fixed throttle on the lift engine and a twist grip on the thrust, so even if the pilot was ejected only the lift engine will continue to maintain raised RPM.  I know the wind then could carry the craft away from the pilot faster than they can swim leaving them stranded and bobbing in cold water.  Although the pilot is likely to stand up now and again for whatever reason while piloting the craft, they are most likely to stay central to the steering handlebars because of how the seating is designed and how much weight alters the balance of a frilly skirted hovercraft.  The majority of the time the pilot is most likely to remain seated, so the chances of being ejected from the craft are minimal in normal use is minimal.

« Reply #8 on: Nov 15, 2018, 5:35 am »
 
I don't use an isolator at all - non of my car's ever have, and it's one less thing to cause a break down. Particularly because I've found the commonly available isolators to be very unreliable. The reasoning is this:

There appears to be two reasons to have an isolator.

1 - Safety, should a short occur then you can isolate the battery. However, almost all of the electrical system will be protected by a fuse, and the remaining unfused wire to the starter should be carefully routed and insulated so as to mitigate risk of shorting. And I seriously doubt that anyone could react fast enough to prevent damage if this wire did short to ground.

2 - Electrolytic corrosion. If the positive is left connected around the craft, and salty damp conditions provide a path to ground, tiny leakage currents can cause corrosion in switches and other electrical equipment . This, however, is less of a problem with non-conductive hulls and not a problem when the craft is stored away from salt water.

Safety is always a balance of risk, and rarely is something unambiguously 'safer'. For example, a lanyard may prevent the engine running on if a person goes overboard, but conversely if it is accidentally disconnected when operating at speed at a high yaw angle (side slipping) then it will cause a capsize. You have to decide which risk is bigger, before you decide whether it's 'safer' to have a lanyard or not. A similar principle applies to the isolator. It could perhaps prevent a fire, but equally it could fail at sea leaving you drifting onto the rocks. My view is that the former is less likely, and the latter is more likely, and therefore it is safer not to use an isolator.

As the risk of capsize when yawing is peculiar to hovercraft, then this calculation may be different for a boat. The lanyard arguement is also different in a boat, we have all heard tragic tales of people being run over by thier own boats, something that is much less likely in a hovercraft (because the steering self centres) and much less likely to have tragic consequences  (because there is no water propeller). So these differences should be considered when deciding whether it is safer to use a lanyard or not.

As often with these things, this a nuanced picture that may have different answers in different situations.

Ian
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #7 on: Nov 15, 2018, 12:29 am »
 

So now I use the same type of isolation switch that I have on all my cars, it's very reliable and also very cheap!

Which is??? :-\

« Reply #6 on: Nov 14, 2018, 10:28 pm »
 
Isolator switches cause more failures than they prevent. All the isolation switches I have ever owned have failed eventually. Expensive or cheap, seems to make no difference!


I have used isolator switches on many powerboats over the last 30+ years and never had a problem, some were protected to some extent inside cabins and others exposed such as on my rib, situated on the main console and splashed by salt spray,rain etc. still OK after 14 years!! AND it got more use than most HC (except perhaps JR's!!)
I think the only electrical problem I have ever had has been a dead battery on my rib and that was 6 years old! I have rewired several old Chris Craft and never had an electrical failure! Top quality marine components,  protection[size=78%] and care seem to have played dividends.[/size]

« Reply #5 on: Nov 14, 2018, 7:42 pm »
 
So basically not bother with one  :)

While on the subject of isolation switches, whats the current thinking on engine kill cords?  Use don't use?

« Reply #4 on: Nov 14, 2018, 6:52 pm »
 
Isolator switches cause more failures than they prevent. All the isolation switches I have ever owned have failed eventually. Expensive or cheap, seems to make no difference!

So now I use the same type of isolation switch that I have on all my cars, it's very reliable and also very cheap!
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK


« Reply #2 on: Nov 14, 2018, 12:59 pm »
 
Yes, I've seen lots of rubbish switchs in the last few years. You will find good quality at a reasonable price if you shop around. The real good ones are expensive.

« Reply #1 on: Nov 14, 2018, 11:01 am »
 
I may have just been unlucky here, but looking at the quality of the switch knob I fear a lot of them will be like this.


I took delivery yesterday of the isolator switch in the picture.  I took it out of the box to examine it, tried to twist the switch as to turn it on/off and the switch knob snapped  :o >:( .  Looking at the switch the plastic red knob is made of a thin brittle plastic.  I contacted the seller and sent them a picture of the switch and they have refunded my money.


I was lucky this happened before I had even fitted the switch, but if it had snapped in the middle of nowhere, then it coud have ruined a day out on the hover, having to mess about bypassing the switch.


Now I need to rethink what i'm going to use for battery isolation.


What are others using?