[John Robertson Posts: 5137 Status: Offline WWW]

Make sure the hull is dead square (no twist or bend) before you attach the coamings/longerons.  Once they are attached the hull will become very stiff.

Its a better idea to build them (and the vertical dash supports) onto the hull before you flip it over - it will then be much stiffer and less likely to twist.

[Ian Brooks Posts: 3552 Status: Offline]

Started the long bits that travel the length of the craft last night. My table is too small to do the whole length at once. So I have done half, and will do the other half tomorrow and then join the two later.

Check the plans carefully - I made my longerons 3.5" too long and didn't realise until late in the assembly, when I noticed the whole craft was 3.5" longer than it should be! Took 3 days to find out what had gone wrong, and how to re-design the skirt to cope with the new shape of the back end!

The longerons are not the full length of the craft - they are 3.5" shorter!

Ian

[Ian Brooks Posts: 3552 Status: Offline]

I like that one with all the lights and switches.

The steering idea is also practical, will have to do that too.

I cant decide if I should use a curved or square dash, I also do not want to block the hole too much, so that it can double as a bed. Maybe with a reading light in each corner.

I would prefer the steering to be in the middle, can I do this, or should I make it to the left of the dash.?

Not sure is I want the wife next to me or behind., I suppose two sitting right in front will give better weight distribution. But with the steering in the middle, the two passengers can sit further forward and then the back two will have more legroom.

Like many things, it'll come down to preference in the end. The Sev will take some degree of offset weight, but a person used to a small segment craft is likely to try to trim it level at all times - I do! But John R doesn't has his steering at the side per plans ad it seems to work fine. In general, the Sev is much less sensitive to trim than a segment skirted craft.

Ian

[Ian Brooks Posts: 3552 Status: Offline]

Hi

This is the dashboard of my Surveyor - cool, eh?

[ATTACH]4192[/ATTACH]






Ok ok just dreaming...

Dash is 1/2" foam covered in 6oz cloth, cut to shape and supports the foredeck.

[ATTACH]4187[/ATTACH]

Behind this is a second piece of 1/2" foam-cloth. Both these had large hole drilled in (holesaw) to accept nylon bushes as bearings for a steering column made out of tube. (Also note the tow point at the front - alum re-inforcing plate. Fit one now or regret it later!)

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Tow point - front:

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Rear:

[ATTACH]4190[/ATTACH]

Handlebars - a regular bicycle swansneck fits directly on the steering tube.

[ATTACH]4191[/ATTACH]

Ian

[John Robertson Posts: 5137 Status: Offline WWW]

The dash design is really up to you - it depends on exactly what you want on the panel (probably not very much is needed!).  Make it sloping so you can see everything whilst sitting.

By far the easiest (and cheapest!) way to make a steering system is to use the handlebar pivot tube from a bicycle.  It's lightweight, smooth and durable.  The alternative is a length of tubing (conduit or ali) and a couple of HDPE blocks as bearings and mounts (check your plans).  Whether you use handlebars or a steering wheel is personal preference - both work well but make sure a steering wheel is lightweight.

This version uses the remnants of the front wheel forks and the bike tube frame to mount the cables:
[ATTACH]4185[/ATTACH]


Note the bolt used as a travel limiter - you must have one at both the steering wheel AND rudder end of the system to avoid damaging the cables

Fixed throttles are the way to go in a cruising craft to avoid "finger fatigue" on long trips.