« Reply #19 on: Oct 24, 2025, 7:06 pm »
 
I think the thrust belts are made to look worse through the camera than they are. Not sure why, unless it’s something to do with the propeller blades messing with the camera sensor. I checked with the belt calculator and they should be 9.1 mm offset at 2.6kg. I set the belts at that and they feel pretty tight

« Reply #18 on: Oct 24, 2025, 4:21 pm »
 
Hope you've also checked the thrust belts as they are also flapping around - calculate the tension properly.  Kohler 40 idle rpm should be 1200 min. - don't set it below this as it has (in common with Briggs) slinger/splash lubrication for the heads/piston (too low an idle speed can overheat the engine).

« Reply #17 on: Oct 24, 2025, 12:59 pm »
 
All back together :)


Video of it running at 1500 RPM.  You can see hover is trying to lift at this point.



https://youtu.be/tEe9TXXVLXc







« Reply #16 on: Oct 23, 2025, 8:28 pm »
 
Looks like I found the problem. Looks very likely the lift belt was too slack. I used the club belt calculator and it said the belt should have a 7.8mm deflection with a force of 2.6kg. I checked the deflection at 2.6 kg and it was 15mm.
While I was at it I fitted a spare lift belt which I cable tied to the frame. That was quite a lot of work, so I’m pleased I done it at home rather than stuck on a beach somewhere


I also swapped one of the idler pulleys, as it had some play in the bearing and was noisy




« Reply #15 on: Oct 20, 2025, 8:28 pm »
 
I looked at that John but there is so little space on my thrust frame that the rollers would need to be tiny and spin at a zillion rpm - hence a major failure point.  Also concerned about having bearings right in the slip stream - I can only see touch pads as a possible solution but am concerned about wear on the belt ....  I would be interested in your design concept as/when it is finished !  Tx.  :-)

« Reply #14 on: Oct 19, 2025, 8:53 pm »
 
Any thoughts on fitting nylon touch pads on a timing belt drive?  I get a bit of resonance on mine.  The belt is a nice tension and I don't want to disturb the alignment but I've always thought that vibration damping on toothed belts was a failure waiting to happen.
im designing a htd pulley setup at the moment ross, the belt is so long due to large fan i am going to design an idler pulley on the slack side of the belt. basically a roller with bearings, much like the fan hub.

« Reply #13 on: Oct 19, 2025, 12:44 pm »
 
I've just put the numbers into the belt calculator.


I went with what was on the plans, which was 4.5lbs & 1/2" deflection.  Looks like I may of had the belt too loose.  Will check what my current tension is before removing the belt to rule out any other factors, but I suspect belt incorrect tension.



TensionNumber of belts required (calculated 0.65)[/size]1Belt tension deflection distance (mid-span)[/size]7.8 mmMinimum deflection force @ mid-span (used belt)[/size]2 KgMaximum deflection force @ mid-span (new belt)[/size]2.6 Kg[/size][/font][/size][/font]

« Reply #12 on: Oct 19, 2025, 12:24 pm »
 
The belt that is fitted is an HTC  SPA 2360 belt.  Also says its heat and oil resistant. 


I've been unwell the past couple of days, so haven't checked out if anything is loose or going tight or what the belt tension is etc.


Hopefully I'll be able to have a proper look in the week.

« Reply #11 on: Oct 19, 2025, 11:15 am »
 
As said, its' also possible (although very unlikely!) that the drive/driven pulleys or fan hub are slipping on the shafts (I would have thought that would be very obvious due to a screeching noise and very hot pulleys!).

Assuming belt slip due to wrong tension or belt type then the belt should be discarded as its been run slipping for a considerable time (the heat generated damages the tension cords and friction surfaces to the point the belt needs continuous tensioning).  The belt should be a wedge type (SPA) which increases margin by around 30% over standard 'A' section (and fits the same pulleys, etc.).  I'd also recommend the higher end no-maintenance belts (Gates Quad Power, etc.) from a reputable manufacturer.

There is a proper belt tension calculator HERE that will give the correct tension for a new belt (over-tension by 15% normally).  Note that for a mule drive you should use the driven-to-idler pulley centre spacing, instead of the full length, to calculate the tension).  Use the full centre spacing to calculate the load rating is OK (it is!). All simple basic stuff.

« Reply #10 on: Oct 19, 2025, 9:48 am »
 
Also Al said the first time he used it, it was fine.
The second time it wasn’t right.


Refer to Ian’s post.
“If a belt is slipping it will lose tension very quickly”
This is exactly what has happened.

« Reply #9 on: Oct 19, 2025, 9:43 am »
 
Hi Ian
If it isn’t slipping, why all of a sudden is it losing lift.
It’s has never ever done it before.

« Reply #8 on: Oct 19, 2025, 8:36 am »
 
Are you really sure it’s slipping? Belts do run a little warm normally. A slipping belt will wear and lose its tension very quickly

Perhaps get an optical tachometer and prove whether the belt is slipping or not. 

https://ebay.us/m/ZrMuF8
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #7 on: Oct 18, 2025, 10:52 am »
 
Please tell me if I’m being thick here…..
In this system there are 4 pulleys, three of them have bearings, one is the crankshaft.
On the crankshaft and the driven pulley on the lift fan, the belt has a full 180 degrees of pulley contact.which is as good as it  gets.
It is also known from the plans, that a single belt can transmit the amount of power required to drive the lift fan.
It is also known that on this craft, this system has operated faultlessly for some considerable time.
Looking at this from the prospective of a simple car mechanic.
Check all the bearings and belt contact surfaces. If the idler pulleys or contact surfaces are suspect, there are some in the boxes in the craft.
Put the belt on tighten it.
If it gets warm ……it’s slipping….tighten it…We know a single belt can absorb the power of the lift fan.
It doesn’t need any modifications, it just needs to be tight enough.
I can’t believe it can be so hard.




« Reply #6 on: Oct 17, 2025, 7:23 pm »
 
Any thoughts on fitting nylon touch pads on a timing belt drive?  I get a bit of resonance on mine.  The belt is a nice tension and I don't want to disturb the alignment but I've always thought that vibration damping on toothed belts was a failure waiting to happen. 

« Reply #5 on: Oct 17, 2025, 10:16 am »
 


My input (bearing in mind i operate a Hovtec OTTER)) is that reducing vibration (Simple Harmonic Motion) is essential to ensure ideal power transmission, with subsequent decrease in operating noise, (ie you reduce hull vibrations -AKA- noise)


To THIS end, ive incorporated an antivibration damper in the V belt drive up to the OTTER thrust with very considerable effect, reducing vibration and any feeling of "harshness" through out the rev range.
 
On my previous Hovercraft that I designed, (KINGFISHER 1) I have taken phone video of belts operating at their harmonic state which show that the pulleys can exhibit 50% reduction in engagement, ie 50% of the driving/driven V surface was not touching! On that craft I positioned damper blocks at 35 % and 60 % distances from the ends, ie driven and driving sides were PREVENTED from harmonic vibration and the improvement was considerable.
 
On YOUR craft- IS there noticeable increase or higher vibration at your cruise revs?  IMHO only by videoing the belts at those revs 3000rpm? will your vibration video be instructive, not as much at 1200rpm IMHO. Can you fasten a video camera and power up on shingle 3 inch pebbles (to absorb all lift) and check to see if there is measurable vibration / power transmission loss?.


As Ive said before (I think) Perhaps remove the lift area cover to check IF that is strangling the lift input area. It will only take 5 mins to check this out, and let us know. As Ive also said before, I did exactly this 30 years ago on a craft to encompass the noisy lift, only to find that the lift actually produced was strangled, although noise was reduced a bit. Upon removal of said cover - the lift was SO improved, that REVS could be reduced again! In short, my noise reducing cover reduced LIFT rather than noise!!!! History sometimes helps and this piece of hovercraft history is passed onto you FOC!  ;)
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT