[beauharlan Posts: 1 Status: Offline]

Lots of great tips from everyone. Thank 

[Nick Flint Posts: 4957 Status: Offline]

All good points, John Im using "wet and forget" against algae on patios, drives, motorhomes.
Seems good so far.
I agree ref pram hood erections, and will apply what's left of my brain in the Autumn to some new hood supports.
I love stainless, but will certainly use aluminium for lightness, cost and ease of use.
Good luck Mark

[John Robertson Posts: 5198 Status: Offline WWW]

And - a few hoody things!

The hood is a roof so it needs a ridge and enough slope to run off most of the water (or you will end up with a giant puddle which risks collapsing the entire thing!).  A few degrees of slope is enough to shed most of the water.

The front edge (windscreen?) needs some form of blocking seal to prevent wind-driven water pushing up over the screen edge and into your face!  Easiest solution I've found is a 10mm high closed-cell foam seal fitted behind the fasteners (so water coming through them doesn't also end up in the cockpit during storage). 


Best to think about where water will go before you make anything.  You need to "discourage" it from all running off at a few locations as it will eroded the hull eventually.

I've used various hood materials but the best is "acrylic canvas" by far.  If you intend using it as a storage cover then nothing else will last anywhere near as long (some materials barely managed a year outside!).  You will then get the mould/aglae issue as it's a woven material.  It can be cleaned externally quite well but I've been unable to clean the inside well.  The cleaner/treatment of choice for hoods is "Patio Magic" (non-chlorine base biocide).

[orkneymark Posts: 110 Status: Offline]

That's great folks, lots to think about...

[John Robertson Posts: 5198 Status: Offline WWW]

A lot depends on what you want to hood/cover to do.  I use quarter turn fasteners (stainless of course) BUT they (like all eyelet-based fasteners) aren't waterproof.  If the hood is designed for semi-permanent fixing then its' easier to use plastic awning rail at the storage end) usually the rear) to provide a water & windproof joint.   If the hood is used during storage then I'd use proper fasteners on the bottom edge as wind can make it flutter quite badly (and any metal eyelets will make holes in you craft hull over time!). 

Other stuff.

With hindsight I prefer the pram-hood type supports - they don't look so "stylish" but they make it very easy and quick to erect the hood when needed (I just pull the front attach hood edge forward from the rear to the front screen edge and the hood supports all rise up at the same time so it can be done one-handed in a two seconds.

I installed "windows" it the hood sides but, again hindsight, I wouldn't do that again.   You don't need sides when using the craft if you provide some side-shelter at the front - rain and wind just flows past (make sure the hood edge is outside the cockpit edge so water runs/drips outside the cockpit area!) and makes it easier to get in and out of the craft.  You do need sides if you are using the hood for outside storage or camping but windows aren't needed.

Last point is zippers - they aren't really needed for sides (and they all eventually fail anyway - tip #999 is to use a small zip tie across the zipper to block the end (rather than welding the teeth together as is normal) so you can easily separate the zip to thread  a new zipper on when the  existing one falls apart!).    The storage sides can just be rolled up to the main hood (I used those elastic cord ball things (camping?) to hold them up - anything simple and reliable would do the job).  You can then still lower the sides if camping

[Steve Holland Posts: 1608 Status: Offline]

I would suggest lift a dot and/or turnbutton for areas needing more security. Press studs corrode, only a little corrosion makes them stick, at least with me they do.
Obviously stainless or brass plated for our use.

[Nick Flint Posts: 4957 Status: Offline]

No doubt you've seen this. Tenax SS fasteners along the top front windscreen area (as they are under considerable load, and look nice,) Lift the dot at the rear as they need to be more easily lifted getting in and out, and along the bottom - bungee cord thro eyelets. looping around mushroom lower plastic castings. These double up to loop CAT PROOF mesh when in my garden.
Its nice to get a tight fit for smooth contours,,,,, BUT
I now prefer looser double duck coverage in that with cold (old) hands- its difficult to undo the forward windscreen cover, - so ive made a special tool to slide under tenax to lift and undo.
Be aware of the dangers of getting OUT if you turn over especially over shallow water, so the lower bungees are set loose and easily got out of (in theory)
The current frame of 5mm glassfibre rod, advised by JR work well and are light and easily stored, but (for me)--- the "sunroof option" ie partially folded back result in an untidy travel - see my recent video.
This Winter (it's always in the future)!--- I shall redesign a different frame to allow a nicer full cover / sunroof cover - full open top version. Its a nice project to consider with no grovelling.

[orkneymark Posts: 110 Status: Offline]

Hi folks


I was wondering what is everyones preferred method of attaching the soft-top canopy / cover to the hovercraft? Do you use different fixings for the front, around and above the windscreen, than to the rear?
What about the side fixings?
Be good to know the pro's and cons of the fitting attachment types and methods?


Thanks.