« Reply #14 on: Jun 21, 2021, 12:05 am »
 
OK. I've found a 1.5 - 3.5 psi e. pump. I'll get one & see. Thanks.

« Reply #13 on: Jun 20, 2021, 8:57 pm »
 
The electric pump should be used all the time - the pulse pump is only rated to lift 600mm max. (it may be that yours will lift more ATM but eventually it may not as the valves wear) and I'm pretty sure your setup needs 1m or more lift..
If it's a horizontal shaft Kohler engine they usually have a "proper" mechanical lift pump mounted on the rocker cover, I dont know why they dont fit them to vertical shaft engines.

« Reply #12 on: Jun 19, 2021, 12:02 pm »
 
I also have a Facet type pump in-line with the mechanical pump on the engine ( Kohler 40).
The electric pump should be used all the time - the pulse pump is only rated to lift 600mm max. (it may be that yours will lift more ATM but eventually it may not as the valves wear) and I'm pretty sure your setup needs 1m or more lift..

« Reply #11 on: Jun 19, 2021, 10:30 am »
 
Genuine Bulbs have "Quicksilver" stamped on Mercury parts.
Never known why, perhaps its like M+S calling their clothes St Michael?
MY bulb transfers fuel to my old car whilst in the garage, and is NOT used for H/C duties!
If you think fuel pipes cause problems- I find Exhaust pipes FAR more hassle to get them reliable  ::)
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #10 on: Jun 19, 2021, 10:29 am »
 
Hi Eric
I also have a Facet type pump in-line with the mechanical pump on the engine ( Kohler 40).
Have only needed to use it for priming when the craft has been stood.
But it’s a good back up in case of the mechanical pump failing.


« Reply #9 on: Jun 19, 2021, 8:32 am »
 
Fuel bulbs, if used, should be replaced every year (it's not just the bulb outer that can cause issues, the internal valves get worn/sticky over time).  If it's being used as a "helper" for an engine pulse pump then I'd consider using a low-pressure electric pump instead (as was used on many carb cars) as the engine pump is probably not capable of lifting from the bottom of an almost empty tank that's more than 450-600mm below the highest point in the fuel system (this applies to Briggs/Kohler engines also).  You won't find out until you need to get home one dark night and the fuel is running low!


In Oz, I'm sure you could find a suitable pump - the Brumby (Subaru pickup) used the Facet 60104 pump for example (anything 1.5 to 4psi pressure should do the job).  These are almost all "pusher" type pumps so need mounted at the lowest point in the fuel system (i.e. level with, or near to, the bottom of the tank) and with the outlet higher than the inlet (also applies to primer bulbs to help stop the valves sticking).


As Ian, says, an electric pump is almost certainly more reliable than a primer bulb - and less work!  Only thing to remember is to have a particle filter between the tank and pump to stop debris jamming/wearing the pump (also applies to primer bulbs as muck can jam the valves).




« Reply #8 on: Jun 19, 2021, 2:51 am »
 
I'm using a Suzuki 1.3 ltr engine carb. model. The engine is located above the tank, higher than in the car, & needs a hand, sometimes, to prime the standard, on engine block, pump. Especially if it's been standing for sometime. I've been advised to adopt fuel injection tech. engines, good advice, but this is what I have & what I am comfortable with, "I know what makes it go". Cheers. P.S. &, yes, I've never had a problem with bulbs on previous boats I have owned or borrowed, so it's anew thing, for sure.

« Reply #7 on: Jun 18, 2021, 11:08 pm »
 
Better still, avoid the primer altogether and fit a pump that can self prime.  The primer bulb is just a set of failure points waiting to spoil your day.

I use in-tank fuel pumps (one in each tank) very reliable and cheap because they’re made in the millions for the auto industry.


I thought the primer bulbs were primarily (No pun intended!!!) for engines with a diaphragm pump which operate with crankcase "Pulses". Fuel injection with "In-tank Pump" then not required.
I've had four outboard powered boats with primer bulbs (5hp Honda,55hp Johnson, 85hp Johnson, 115hp Mariner)
In over 25 years of boating a bulb has never let me down!!

« Reply #6 on: Jun 18, 2021, 8:57 pm »
 
Better still, avoid the primer altogether and fit a pump that can self prime.  The primer bulb is just a set of failure points waiting to spoil your day.

I use in-tank fuel pumps (one in each tank) very reliable and cheap because they’re made in the millions for the auto industry.
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #5 on: Jun 18, 2021, 10:07 am »
 
Ive been affected, and bearing in mind the danger associated with petrol, IMHO ----brace brace (brace------
Buy the most expensive ie as already advised, a genuine mercury perhaps.
Simply ask- "IS this genuine part?"
Nearly always Ebay does list "country of origin"
Proper ones- DO feel soft (always a bonus)  ;)
buttttt after using my current one for 5 years- it has remained pliable.
I agree sometimes, its difficult to buy GOOD STUPH, but on this case its simple.
Buy genuine product, not cheap lookalike.
Its normal to be tempted by what "looks OK"
We all like "a bargain" but even more so--- I HATE buying TWICE!
I guess the new petrol recipes leach out plasticisers from the bulb.
The tubing is similarly affected, and even genuine expensive RATED and stamped tubing can be affected.
My favourite Old Adage,--


Mushrooms - ------------£4-00 / kilo
Mushrooms????--------- £1-00 / kilo
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #4 on: Jun 18, 2021, 9:13 am »
 
Hi Warby, thanks for the reply. Unfortunately everything seems to be made in China around here. Our major trading partner apparently, even though they're treating Oz like cr#p lately. They're upset that our Gov. is insisting on info about Covid origins. I'll look into it.

« Reply #3 on: Jun 18, 2021, 8:45 am »
 
Hi Eric
Was the new one "Made in China" ?
I would stick with a "Genuine" one say Mercury, Mariner,Honda etc
Some of the none genuine ones sold in marine stores use cheap materials.
I've always used top quality fuel line components and never had problems.
I've just been reading a forum on fuel bulbs and someone commented that the Chinese ones do not feel as flexible as genuine ones


Just seen a price for a Genuine Quicksilver primer bulb  $47 (AUS$)
« Last Edit: Jun 18, 2021, 9:26 am by Warby »

« Reply #2 on: Jun 18, 2021, 7:23 am »
 
Hi Eric
Was the new one "Made in China" ?
I would stick with a "Genuine" one say Mercury, Mariner,Honda etc
Some of the none genuine ones sold in marine stores use cheap materials.
I've always used top quality fuel line components and never had problems.

« Reply #1 on: Jun 17, 2021, 11:10 pm »
 
Hi, I recently replaced an inline, rubber? , fuel bulb as it had shrunk to almost half its size & become rock hard, with a new one from a popular boating/ recreation store, BCF. (Boating, Camping, Fishing.). The same thing has happened, pretty quickly. Any opinions??  Thanks.  ps. I only use premium ULP.