« Reply #8 on: Jun 20, 2019, 10:47 am »
By way of update- the Volvo car connections were dismantled,  blown clean/dry, (comp air) and contacts were cleaned (male and female) with switch cleaner (QV Electro Contact Cleaner ----compatible with plastics-)and then CONTRALUBE was lightly applied.
The car has been "FINE" ever since, (ONE WEEK) with NO warnings, or random operations detected,,,,,SO FAR!
Clearly this has ONLY worked so far,                          but it HAS done that.

Fingarse crust.  ;) 
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #7 on: Jun 11, 2019, 9:39 am »
282087-1 - TE Connectivity Male Connector Housing - AMP Superseal 1.5, 6mm Pitch, 3 Way, 1 Row (5)£6.54RS Components UKFor most items:30-day return policy

Ian, Their THREE seals must be the reason. THIS is indeed good news, so---

Al-----does the BS 37 efi have delphi cons? if so you're laughing.
So would I be ----as Winter may see Sparkle re-engined?

Warby- Volvos seem especially prone to multiplug moisture issues. The internet is full! Once my soft top BMW was left with snow covering it for 3 weeks!
Its was running in moisture inside, and the electronic systems were firing off silly stuff. I set a blower heater on for 24 hours directed at the system, and all went away.
My Sparkle has some intermittent electrical poor connection issues, BUT ALL looks purrfect on the surface-----.
I wonder if my rather well used crimper needs replacing then?
It is rather tired now- (or is it me?)  ::)

The guys video shows the corrosion on the multiplugs.

« Last Edit: Jun 11, 2019, 9:54 am by Nick Flint »
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #6 on: Jun 10, 2019, 10:29 pm »
In my 30+ years in the Motor Trade I have rarely come across water/moisture in fuseboxes/multiplugs  I've had more problems with poor connections caused by heat/arcing/improper crimping

« Reply #5 on: Jun 10, 2019, 6:33 pm »
I took all the connectors off the engine on the Otter yesterday - it has a Delphi engine management system - and all were clean and bright inside despite 4 years in a hovercraft parked on the side of a saltwater estuary.
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #4 on: Jun 10, 2019, 6:20 pm »
The guy in the video suggests thin nylon bristles (finer than tooth brush) with switch cleaner, (a few times- let dry) then wipe over contacts with something to "seal the damp out" i believe Contralube will be good.
The feed back on this video appears very positive, and most complain their car has the same woes that affect my sons Volvo S40 1.8 petrol.
The mild corrosion affecting the multi plugs can be seen on his video. I guess cars are left out (window down?) and dampness pervades into the connections.
Its rather a last ditch effort as the car is unreliable as is, and clearly even changing the main module (NEW-hundreds of pounds) that receives all the multipoint plugs entering this 300X200X150mms spaghetti junction would ONLY replace the female aspect of the plugs! ALL the males belong to the car wiring!
I guess its well worth a few hours grovelling and cleaning, incase it works.
No alternative really.
ALL Volvo needed to do at manufacture was smear the cons to heavily reduce the chances of this sad waste of our Earths resources.
Naughty as they did know about corrosion as long ago as 2004ish?
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #3 on: Jun 10, 2019, 3:47 pm »
If the connectors are just dirty then clean them and it might fix it (often, in vehicles it's a water leak or some other cause).  If they are corroded then replace the component (cleaning will only work temporarily - removing the "corrosion" is actually removing the plating allowing the contact to corrode again rapidly).

« Reply #2 on: Jun 10, 2019, 10:17 am »

WOWZER found this---->   8)

Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #1 on: Jun 10, 2019, 9:55 am »
Unashamedly NOTHING to do with hovercraft but I ask here (AS A LONG SHOT) to try and get some help.
1 My 2001 Ford Trannie 2.5 L diesel engined motor home has an intermittent red engine light that the 
CAN OBD 2  Memoscan tells me its the EGR valve. Its been cleaned, even REPLACED, but ALL failed to clear the fault.
Switch off- restart- rev up- its stays off until the engine slows to 800rpm, when it comes on again, and won't go out until restarted again.
Sometimes it locks on no matter what,,,, like now!

2 My sons 2006 ish VOLVO S40 1.8 petrol also has a "control module" type of fault, in that it runs perfectly- then warns of EGR fault,
Then the ABS warns, then the Windscreen wipers come ON and won't go off, and the indicators cease to function, (this latter is dangerous) but clearly the lack? of ABS assistance is no biggie! Garage eventually said this fault was about £600- £1000 new module  MUST be fitted by only VOLVO to tie it into car. (making lovely car worthless - scrap but what a shame for the planet) :-[
This problem was cleared by THEM removing CAR battery connections from battery, shorting out together for a few mins, reconnected- all problems gone. Its been fine for 4 weeks, then repeated the scenario.
After 2 weeks of standing, its starts fine, no DASH messages, no  strange electrical operations. My son has installed an OBD that reports to his phone, and it currently also reads all clear. He has had EGR valve on his Volvo sorted by the garage who declare it is perfectly fine.
I "suspect" the connectors which "connect" these sensors to unruly modules are the culprit, which rather ties into ALs request for help to PREVENT this happening on his craft.
As per my response to Als request- I feel these problems would be cured by GOOD butt shrink glued connections.
After all the connectors are ONLY there to make assembly / replacement easy!!!

Does the collective have any thoughts here.
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT