« Reply #17 on: Jun 12, 2019, 4:17 pm »
The link above is dead,

Like Nick I use Contralube-770 on my connectors and I THINK it helps, I say think as I have no proof one way or the other. TBH if Contralube is good enough for the likes of Rolls Royce to use on their cars who am I to argue. One of the reasons I like Contralube is that it has a tracer dye in it that glows under black light so I know it's getting where I want it.
« Last Edit: Jun 12, 2019, 5:43 pm by Gaz »
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« Reply #16 on: Jun 12, 2019, 12:47 pm »
In the Spirit of sharing- THIS is what I use on exposed terminals.
Usual disclaimers----! ::)

Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #15 on: Jun 12, 2019, 9:50 am »
 An important point and an easily made mistake!!
Silicon and Silicone ARE  very different (Although Silicone does contain Silicon)
I should have watched my spelling!! I should be  referring to SILICONE which is a synthetic polymer and not the element Silicon (Which is a Semiconductor)
Interestingly the main raw material for Silicone Rubber is Sand yes Sand (Silica)
For those who like reading:-

« Reply #14 on: Jun 12, 2019, 6:54 am »
Don't confuse Silicon with Silicone !

« Reply #13 on: Jun 11, 2019, 11:28 pm »
That reinforces what I'm saying.  Some silicon based compounds are conductive and some aren't (silicon is the base for ALL semiconductors!).  Unless you are absolutely sure you know how conductive it is (also applies to any other potion) then it shouldn't be anywhere near electronic connections (where even microscopic amounts of conductivity can cause problems).  Most ECU sensors are still analog (i.e. they produce small voltage changes that are measured by the ECU) - eventually they will all be digital where the voltage measuring will be carried out inside the sensor itself making the system less prone to interference and connection issues.

AFAIK no manufacturer uses "gunk" on connectors (WD40, etc. etc.).  In Hoverland (as in some other areas) it is used to compensate for poor design and/or choice of components - in other words, the product is not fit for purpose so the owner is left with high maintenance and poor reliability.  First, as detailed in the marinisation guide, get rid of as many connectors as possible, secondly use automotive external connectors (not the in-cabin, unsealed types) and you won't go far wrong.

Of course, you still need to pay close attention to cable routing, cable protection and proper strian relief (look under a car bonnet for examples of good design practise!).
« Last Edit: Jun 11, 2019, 11:58 pm by John Robertson »

« Reply #12 on: Jun 11, 2019, 10:19 pm »
Just some more info regarding neutral cure silicon sealants, some interesting stuff, thermal/heat transfer silicon.

Some years ago when Ford brought out high energy ignition systems and spark plug gaps were increased to 1mm (thats 0.040" in old money)  quite often on high mileage cars the ht current would "Track" down the out side of the spark plug insulator burning a track into the porcelain, even though the plug lead had a long rubber cap. The cure was new leads and plugs assembled with a SILICON grease which Ford suppiled. It has a very high dielectric strength, of around 20kv/mm so keep away from electrical contacts!
« Last Edit: Jun 11, 2019, 10:31 pm by Warby »

« Reply #11 on: Jun 11, 2019, 5:25 pm »
Neutral Cure Silicone Sealants are OK for Electronics and Metal NO acetic acid

Which is great for those who know the difference (your nose should tell you), If your unsure in any way play safe & follow Johns advice, doing nothing in this case is going to be safer than doing something and getting it wrong.
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« Reply #10 on: Jun 11, 2019, 5:06 pm »

Silicon sealant should NEVER be used near metal of any type - the curing agent is acetic ACID which, when trapped beneath the cured surface does a great job of eating metal!

Neutral Cure Silicone Sealants are OK for Electronics and Metal NO acetic acid

Also Dow Corning 744 Electrical sealer

Info [size=78%]https://www.masterbond.com/techtips/comparison-acetoxy-curing-and-neutral-curing-silicones[/size]
« Last Edit: Jun 11, 2019, 5:34 pm by Warby »

« Reply #9 on: Jun 11, 2019, 1:08 pm »
I didn’t read all the comments so, if this was referenced, please accept my apologies.  In your research, did you run across any mention of superhydrophobics for protecting electrical connections in a marine environment.  If you google for superhydrophobics, a Wikipedia article should be listed which speaks favorably about using them to protect electrical connections.  I have used a superhydrophobics product in the states called Neverwet to keep mud off my shoes.  It doesn’t last long, but it’s amazing how well it sheds water and mud and prevents both from sticking to my shoes.  The Wikipedia article mentions this durability weakness but also mentions it is an effective product for protecting electrical connections since there is no friction to wear away the product.

I bought the commercial grade of Never Wet that has 2 cans.  One is the base, which is applied and let dry for 30 minutes.  The 2nd can is applied 3-4 times and allowed to dry 2-3 minutes between each application.  I have applied it to the exposed connections on the starter of my Kohler 29 HP EFI and hope to be testing it soon after the Brazos River level subsides so I can get back on the river.

« Reply #8 on: Jun 10, 2019, 3:36 pm »
Nothing is the answer!  Never add any substance to an ELECTRONIC connection unless it is specifically rated for such use (microamp and microvolt levels and is compatible with the precious metal platings used on most electronic connectors.  Lubricants and other "magic" potions are more likely to interfere with the self-cleaning action of most modern connectors and will do nothing to protect against corrosion of plated metal (anyone seen corroded gold?).  Modern automotive connectors have very effective seals on both the body and the wire entry - other than protecting them from direct salt water pressure (which could compromise the seals), and possibly adding some extra wire entry strain-relief/sealing, nothing else required (the Deplhi ECU harness plugs aren't sealed - all the standard sensors are).
Silicon sealant should NEVER be used near metal of any type - the curing agent is acetic ACID which, when trapped beneath the cured surface does a great job of eating metal!

« Reply #7 on: Jun 10, 2019, 11:50 am »
I've been searching the internet and looking on boating forums to see what they recommend for electrical connections.  As with everything different people have different ways of doing things, but by far the cost common is the use of silicon grease in electrical connections.  One post I found they recommended that the wire ends are dipped in silicon grease prior to being crimped in electrical connector then covered in glue lined heat shrink.  Seems to make sense.  On one post they recommend not to use silicon grease on the antenna connections as apparently it can interfere with radio frequencies.  No idea if that is correct or not.

Some also recommended spraying the connections afterwards with this stuff,  

Trying to buy it in the UK seems to be well expensive.  I wonder whether motorcycle chain wax sprayed on afterwards would do a similar job?  https://wd40.co.uk/specialist-motorbike/chain-wax/

« Reply #6 on: Jun 10, 2019, 10:22 am »
The problem with the plugs I need to ensure no corrosion problems, is that they plug into stuff, like the ECU and other sensors.  Where I can I have chopped out the plug and replaced with butt connectors and heat shrink. 

« Reply #5 on: Jun 10, 2019, 9:21 am »
Yes Ross its highly dependant upon "what works for you"
If you've had no electrical faults in 10 years- then CLEARLY that IS VVV GOOD!!!

MY personal pitch is---
Crimped glued BUTT joints have never failed ME in 8-9 years I've been using. Not once. Ive ground them after years of salt water with a stone and looked under my thrybroscrope, - all good
I do NOT trust "allegedly marine connectors" and  replace them ALL with butt joints.
so when removing engine, I simply cut --- then on refitting, I clean the wire with two different unctions to remove oil /dust /crap, and repeat crimp/glue/shrinkwrap. Als EFi connectors are multi stranded AND a number of same colour/same size wires--- you would need to reconnect correctly!

Vaseline is much simpler than my method. and I guess you could shrink wrap over the vaseline, to avoid tape which always unwinds for ME especially in oily/WD40 and draughty environs!!!!
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #4 on: Jun 10, 2019, 9:17 am »
Doesn't the heat from the engine melt the vaseline?

I was considering silicon grease as an alternative.

From the sounds of it, the vaseline works.  I just want to make sure that whatever I use will stop electrical corrosion problems, hence this post thread.

« Reply #3 on: Jun 10, 2019, 9:16 am »
I think ACF 50 or Contralube 770 may be a little cleaner than Vaseline (nothing personal Vaseline) I have also just discovered something called Corrosion Block

ACF 50 info here
Contralube info here.
Corrosion Block info here

I have used contralube for years but it is hard to find and expensive nowadays. Never used ACF 50 but have only heard good things about it. Corrosion Block looks to be made by the ACF 50 guys but know nothing other than the info in the link. Maybe consider trying the corrosion block and reporting back on how it goes
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