Hovercraft Cruising Club UK
Open Forums => General => Topic started by: Gary Firth (Gazza) on Aug 25, 2018, 8:01 am
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Lift engine going in the eagle 4.
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Have you omitted a video or photo? :-[
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Pushed the right buttons but no picture.
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Pic
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Removing the dash board with my airbags. (Nothing smutty intended).
Sharpened putty knife and a hammer helped.
Dash has to come out to fit engine. Will be pop riveting it back so it’s easier if it ever has to come out.
Will redo the wiring to the instruments whilst it’s on the bench (pool table).
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"EEL level" made me giggle for too long.
Mirth in the Morning.
What ever next ::)
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Lining up for hole in the bulkhead.
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More pics.
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Another pic
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Just waiting for the 2 part bouancy foam. Then I can continue.
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Hi, Gary, what can you tell us about the 90* gearbox? Make, weight, cost, etc. Thanks.
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Go to k and m products. It’s on there.
As for price I have no idea bought as a full kit of parts.
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More jobs done. Splitter cut out
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Platter hole filled in.
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Painted to make it neater.
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The foam was a big disappointment.
I was expecting so much more.
I was expecting mt versuvias in a split second of mixing the two parts.
Turns out it’s a big disappointment reaction takes an age and the expansion is poor.
(I know how our lass feels now).
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You get a better reaction if you warm both parts before mixing, the downside is the wife gets a little cranky when she finds the tins in her beloved oven. if its pre-heated It foams extremely quickly so you get a bigger foamed volume it also generates a lot of heat
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I’ve done it now but thanks for the tip.
Our lass has come home to engine parts in the oven.
Engine parts in the dishwasher.
I think it’s now a surprise if she comes home and there’s food in the oven and pots in the dish washer
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More stuff done
Mounting plate glassed in. This will have rivnuts so the lift gearbox can be bolted down.
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Cutting the fan blades using a band saw I just bought for £40 on eBay.
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Watch ya fingers.
Finger tips resting on the bed of the saw to stop vibration.
https://youtu.be/kcCStZTS70U (https://youtu.be/kcCStZTS70U)
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Oh wheres the fun in doing stuff quickly?
As women often say "slow is better".
Thats why they don't do much-----------------
Discuss.
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Most times I find its best to know where the danger zone is.
Making statements such as that ......mmmm......sounds dangerous to me.
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If you hurt yourself doing the blades. You really need a cork on your fork when you eat.
Safe as houses.
Having the splitter plate removed means my centre rudder was to short and too high. So I had a rummage and found a temporary one.
If anyone has a rudder 300x750 ish for sale please let me know.
It looks odd but it will do
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Make one yourself out of foam board. Easy
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Make one yourself out of foam board. Easy
It’s done permatempary.
Jobs stopped until the correct size mounting pillars arrive.
So I’ve rewired the dash all neat and tidy.
I’ve printed a air filter (round box with screw lid resized to suit)
See pics.
Gauze from a anti splatter frying pan mesh cover.
Proper air filter foam from motorbike shop.
I had to drill the holes but it means at least the dashboard moulding will fit.
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Rudder looks bang on to my fading eyes. Perhaps a poor colour match tho-- ;)
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Looks like rather a large area to the rear of the pivot point (on the larger rudder) and hardly anything forward, which may make the steering "heavy" See "balanced rudders"
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It will perform just like it did before.
Same pivot point.
Would have kept the original if it hadn’t have been too high up due to original splitter.
Nick mi old fruit the paint is ordered.
CombiColor red.
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I am deeply comforted as I was feeling faint.
Standards man - (Standards).
On a personal note, I feel "balanced rudders"
are often "overbalanced" as I prefer to have
a firm self centering action.
In this way the straight ahead position
is re-affirmed (should this be forgotten) by the driver.
:-*
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Balanced rudders.
I am told that 25/75 % is an optimum (using the pivot point as the centre). Checked my Sirocco as didn't like the 'over centre' feel. Felt like it was dropping into turns and you'd have to pull it straight.
The two rudders when checked were 29/71 % on measurements.
I made up sone SS plates to alter the balance of the rudders by moving the relative pivot point to my give basically the same feel as my Marlin III, 21/79.
Sooooooooo much better.
Now feels good with a more self centering action without be heavy.
Nice when a plan comes together...........
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As infered, being reminded where straight ahead is can only be good. ::)
My car feels around 10% in comparison, which i prefer.
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23% is advised by Barry "The Grand Master" Palmer. I have come to accept that I only disagree with Barry when I still have something to learn.
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I’m just happy if the rudders make the craft go in the rough direction I want to go.
As for self cantering I have arms that can do that.
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It’s alive.
https://youtu.be/GRwRNVZQNT8 (https://youtu.be/GRwRNVZQNT8)
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That sounds familiar :) , should work well. BTW with that shaped duct gives some very interesting airflow patterns.
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As long as it works I don’t care.
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Bugger.
2 new pulse pumps original and a new mikuni cast outboard in the 16hp Briggs and it still won’t get fuel to the carb on full chat. (No blocked pipes and breather working).
Gravity feed it and no problem.
Didn’t want to go down the electric pump but I fear I have no option.
Unless I’m missing something.
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You've got a leak somewhere? Is the pump mounted as close as possible to the engine?
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Lift height is next to nothing so that can't be the problem. My guess would be the vacuum pipe to the pump - they need to be short and very stiff wall or the pipe "pulses" instead of the pump diaphragm.
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Where is the pulse tube connected on engine? See photo of pulse tube connected to valve cover on Briggs engine.
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Checked all that. Short pipe. Ordered new pump. Engine was new old stock as was the outboard pump.
Ordered a facet pump and a new pulse pump.
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I had hells own trouble after a rebuild ...until I found that I had connected the pipes the wrong way - very red face.
Previously I actually changed Britannia's entire lift engine because of this problem - I couldn't find the trouble until long afterwards - a tiny split on the side of the pulse tube - after a few minutes at full power it couldn't quite give enough fuel. Caused a few very nasty moments off St Thomas' Head.
I tried an elec pump and went back to pulse. My back ups are the engine primers - KISS comes to mind !
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Sorted the problem.
This is a brand new engine. I put the original pump back on the craft and still didn’t work. So I changed the original Briggs fuel filter for a new filter (bought ten off eBay ages ago).
Works a treat now. No issues and I now have a new unused facet pump for the box a bits.
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I believe that Briggs had a batch of bad filters some time ago. We had one on a mower that caused endless problems. Probably one of those ?
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It’s done the hard work is over.
Now it’s a case of tweaking,checking pressures and possibly making the holes in the plenum bigger.
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After bombing around at the hcbd hoverin trying my best to break the eagle 4.
I discovered the following.
Plenum pressure to is 80 thingies and the skirt pressure is 60 thingies.
Exhaust is too loud.
Lift engine needs an electric pump.
Blades need a tweak to get the max revs down from 9500 to 8000
Lift duct need cutting so the bottom edge is at the same level as the blades
Trailer needs work.
So all in all a fantastic result.
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Often thought about fitting an electric fuel pump when I had that setup, nevet bothered as the pulse pump never failed.
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Lift duct need cutting so the bottom edge is at the same level as the blades
Why? My lift ducts are a bit deeper than blade trailing edge, 25mm ?, Just askin' :)
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The Space below the blades quite tight. Also should allow the air to distribute better. I could be wrong and I’m sure someone will advise me if I’m right or wrong.
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Often thought about fitting an electric fuel pump when I had that setup, nevet bothered as the pulse pump never failed.
Not sure yet think might need a better fuel filter. The inline one is vertical so there is a air in it. May get a subaru filter like I have on the bmw.
See pic.
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Ideally a fuel filter with a water trap, about 15 quid from eBay
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Ordered 2. Front and back.
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Commonly known in the trade as a "522 with water trap" :)
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Thanks for reminding me Gary, I've just ordered a pair for the TS3 ;D . Just need an engine to connect up to the rear one ???
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Exhaust butchered and packed
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https://youtu.be/2K_aZfy8weU (https://youtu.be/2K_aZfy8weU)