« Reply #14 on: May 11, 2019, 12:28 am »
 
The O2 sensor would usually be in the manifold/downpipe and the wiring is fine as long as it isn't touching the manifold or downpipe.

« Reply #13 on: May 10, 2019, 4:52 pm »
 
Fit it in pipe before the silencer box, temp should not be a problem to it.

« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2019, 1:02 pm »
 
The O2 sensor that goes into the exhaust, can it be mounted in the straight pipe coming off the exhaust manifold or should it be mounted in a silencer? 


I'm thinking that the straight pipe will get very hot and may damage the sensor wires, but perhaps its designed to cope with that heat.


I have a side mounted muffler that came with the engine, but plan on getting a stainless exhaust system made that exits along the side of the thrust duct.
 


« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2019, 10:24 am »
 

« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2019, 8:40 pm »
 
Sealing a  box that has wires coming out of it is really hard, unless it's welded with glass hermetic feedthroughs to get the connections in/out. If air can get in and out, the box will fill up with condensation eventually.

The Delphi is fine in a splash proof box with a drainage hole to let the condensation out that's put in a 'dry' place that's well ventilated.

Ian
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #9 on: May 08, 2019, 8:30 pm »
 
Being resin encapsulated, they are the opposite of "delicate" - the issue is the connections rather than the devices themselves (THe ECU connectors aren't great (need a bit of protection) but all of the others are good).  It's the design and installation of the wiring loom that will determine how reliable the system is.  If the devices are protected from direct and prolonged exposure to salt water (particularly impact exposure) then they will be perfectly fine.

Delphi MT05 manual is attached (has "typical" wiring diagram - note that Briggs may or may not have used it!).

PS - the ignition modules in a carb'ed Briggs contain electronics!

Don't understand why you'd need a shaft end bolt on a horizontal shaft?


The bolt is just a peace of mind item and to ensure the key steel stays in place.


I'll take a wee video of the engine electrics, so easier for people to give advice on what needs to be done.


The manual state not to run engine with battery disconnected.  Disconnect earth wire from battery when charging battery.  In my motor trade days I always disconnected the battery when welding to protect alternator & electronics, so for the sake of a few minutes work to remove the ECU I thought better safe than sorry.


« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2019, 7:54 pm »
 
Being resin encapsulated, they are the opposite of "delicate" - the issue is the connections rather than the devices themselves (THe ECU connectors aren't great (need a bit of protection) but all of the others are good).  It's the design and installation of the wiring loom that will determine how reliable the system is.  If the devices are protected from direct and prolonged exposure to salt water (particularly impact exposure) then they will be perfectly fine.

Delphi MT05 manual is attached (has "typical" wiring diagram - note that Briggs may or may not have used it!).

PS - the ignition modules in a carb'ed Briggs contain electronics!

Don't understand why you'd need a shaft end bolt on a horizontal shaft?

« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2019, 7:48 pm »
 
I have found out what the bolt sizes are on the crank casing.  They are 7/16 UNC, I bought some of these today while in town and they fit  ;D .  I'm pretty sure the bolt in the end of the crank is 5/8 unf.  I have ordered one of these, so will confirm once it arrives.


I haven't looked in the owners manual to see if there is a wiring diagram, if there isn't one then I'll be searching the internet and asking other EFI owners.  While I make the thrust frame I have removed the ECU unit, as not to risk damaging it while drilling or tack welding the frame.  I figured better safe than sorry.


I'll add pictures of the stripped down engine

« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2019, 2:03 pm »
 
What about putting such delicate and important electronics into a sealed box with a sack of Silica gel, and monitor? Has anyone tried this?
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2019, 10:44 am »
 
It's a Delphi system so they aren't "marine" connectors but standard vehicle type sealed connectors (perfectly OK in a marine environment so don't touch them other than maybe squirt some CorrosionX, or other electronics compatible corrosion inhibitor, into the unplugged female part).  The main engine connector will probably be a multi-way plug (I assume you have the wiring digram?) - there are no second chances, get a connection wrong and you'll fry the electronics.  Make sure the O2 sensor is mounted at the correct angle in the exhaust and seal the wire exit on top of it.  The ECU is probably protected anyway (they are encapsulated in resin) but if not, stick a unsealed plastic cover over it and any other relays, etc.
And, get a spares pack (sensors + ECU), if something fails (highly unlikely)you are dead in the water.  Also connect the OBD diagnostic wire to a standard OBD car socket (eBay) so you can use an off-the-shelf diagnostic adaptor.

« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2019, 9:37 am »
 
You can use THIS Contralube to smear over electrical connections, GREAT for Battery connections etc Buuuuttt-When I marinise
I remove ALL connectors, ("marine" or not) and connect the wires  with heat shrink wrap glued crimped butt connectors.
Ive checked MY 6 year old connectors, by grinding away to a cross section and found they were as good as NEW--- after 6 years salt spray.
The test could not have been harder--- The results could not have been better. THIS is one reason why I am so KEEN on this kind of marinisation.
With respect to "connectors" they are MEANT (designed) to come apart. IMHO there is NO real reason to have that facility. Connectors are used PURELY to allow first constructors of cars/boats/ hovercraft / engines / bilge pumps to EASILY assemble. With practice, I can create a perfect non time/salt dependant electrically superb connection in 20 secs perhaps. Job done, no worry - NO failure - No sweat. Just 20 secs to assure such reliability is "a no brainer"! IMHO!
WHEN you remove the engine- CUT the wires! When replacing engine, clean last 3 inches with Iso Prop Alc - strip the wire back and "BUTTS" your uncle.

 ;)
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2019, 8:30 am »
 
According to that info, my engine is supposed to have a 7/16th thread in the end of the crankshaft and there is meant to be a 1/4" key way.  I know its not the 7/16" tread as I have some of those bolts as that is the size of the 19hp lift engine crank bolt ;) ;)  I have a 5/8" thread and a 3/8" key way ??? .  Weird thing is that with the engine a piece of key steel was in the bag with the manual and exhaust gaskets etc, but it is 1/4"  ???  Typical B&S quality control ::) ::) ::)


Looking on page 63/64 it says that the electrical plugs are marine standard, so that should help with the marinizing.  I was looking at the electrical connections yesterday and was wondering how I'm going to keep the salt out of the ecu etc.  I was thinking using plenty of silicon grease in all the connectors (not sure if that would work or not)  I'll post some pictures of the engine as I strip it down.

« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2019, 11:18 pm »
 
There are a few dimensions here:- https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/2016_RepowerEngineSpecs.pdf
Not many I'm afraid!
I'm sure someone will be along soon with details
« Last Edit: May 08, 2019, 6:18 pm by John Robertson »

« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2019, 5:28 pm »
 



Does anyone know the thread sizes for the end of the crankshaft and the 4 larger holes on the crankcase/oil pan cover?
I'm hazarding a guess at 5/8 unf for the end of the crankshaft and 7/16 unc for the 4 bolt holes on the crankcase/oil pan cover. There is nothing in the owners manual that came with the engine.