« Reply #8 on: Jan 08, 2019, 6:48 pm »
 
Rumour has it our Cap'n Flint is a little clackers, this just fuels the rumours  (see what I did there)
National Sarcasm Society - like we need your support
http://www.patsure.com

« Reply #7 on: Jan 08, 2019, 6:41 pm »
 
I casually walk by giving the solenoid a Click/Clack just because I can!
Sad or what.

There's nothing like a quick clack, I always say!
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #6 on: Jan 08, 2019, 1:59 pm »
 
Bearing in mind Ian GAVE me the engine, I fear warrantee issues are not time dependant, and as such do NOT apply.
It was amazing, how the expanded corrosion GRIPPED the inside of the hole, invisibly preventing its rotation!.
So smug am I over this fix, I casually walk by giving the solenoid a Click/Clack just because I can!
Sad or what.
Stainless will be sourced for longevity repair.  8)
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT

« Reply #5 on: Jan 08, 2019, 9:23 am »
 
I have used bicycle spokes for similar applications, cheap and easy to get hold of!
The top quality ones are made of Sandvik 18/8 stainless steel
« Last Edit: Jan 08, 2019, 9:28 am by Warby »

« Reply #4 on: Jan 07, 2019, 9:34 pm »
 
You might want to see if you can get stainless welding rod in the right size? eBay would be a good place to look

Ian
A stainless TIG rod from your local welding supply shop should work well.

« Reply #3 on: Jan 07, 2019, 9:13 pm »
 
Ah yes, I believe said defective part was manufactured by my good self some while ago. From copper coated  mid steel welding rod. Out of warranty now, though, I'm afraid :-\

You might want to see if you can get stainless welding rod in the right size? eBay would be a good place to look

Ian
Ian Brooks
Gloucester, UK

« Reply #2 on: Jan 07, 2019, 4:06 pm »
 
Hi Nick I think you use the Anti-Corrosion  Formula  ACF- 50 ?  This is what I use on parts like this and what your putting on as well is good for it 👍.  I use ACF-50 I spray the engine and all the electrics that are exposed, including the starter motor.

« Reply #1 on: Jan 07, 2019, 1:18 pm »
 
My long held (JADED) view of these devices was re-visited recently as starting was becoming more of a miss or hit affair than is acceptable in my Otter (which OTHERWISE) behaves impeccably, (unlike the owner)
Upon huge illuminations in relative dry and 5 deg C I dismantled and viewed with intense dislike and close scrutiny.
I found the small rod which pulls the carb choke on - to be TOTALLY seized inside the hole into which it is held. The First photo shows the return spring disengaged, and the rod pulled out for clarity.


The second Photo shows rod pushed into choke activation hole, and flip over clip engaging the rod to prevent the rod sliding out. Copper grease has been used to seal the orifice, and will be regularly wiped with Copper grease from now on. The rod needed long persuasion to remove from the hole into which it was seized due to corrosion. The wire rod was cleaned, and scraped, then polished with wet/dry and liberally coated in lubricant.
Currently operation of the electric choke is nothing short of astonishing, i.e. it CLACKS open, then off in a most agreeable and staccato way.
I found the engine would either NOT start (i.e. choke was off still) OR--- it would start then slowly stop due to choke being ON---- and not switching off.
This fault was
A) invisible
B) and the size of 1.35mms!
IE it was not surprising its taken me Soooooo long to recognise and so little time to rectify.
This easy fix wends its merry way to you all so we may start 2019 on a big upper!!!!!
Memories are BETTER than Dreams---"Capn" FLINT